![]() A crosstable is the top I guess but only necessary for scratchbuilders and not for kitbuilders that are already supplied with rows of pre-etched holes. ![]() Some models are fitted with a crosstable to deliver neat regular and straight rows of rivets. This fancy thing accommodates a punch and die and features adjustable pressure. One step further is the "professional" rivet press. The problem of the underlying surface is not solved though. The drop height determines the impact so repeatability is good. Lift the weight and drop it along the rod. In essence it is a rod that you place in the etched hole. It is for sale at Godfathers' Models & Supplies for appr. This calls for better solutions.Ī more professional solution is a device that uses a drop weight. Too hard means the rivet is not correctly formed, too soft spells bending of the etch sheet. The underlying surface is also problematic. The pin is not always held straight, one time you push harder than the other, and every now and then your pliers buzz off possibly damaging your sheet. It will work but it produces mediocre results. Put the sheet on a flat surface and push a pin with pliers in the hole. ![]() The simplest of methods is riveting by hand, well sort of. The modeler should press these holes through with a punch of some sort, resulting in a rivet. The kit supplier solve this by providing half etched holes on the backside of the sheet. Very often the other side of the sheet must be etched as well and etching the rivets renders the sheet too thin or the process too complicated. When making etched kits it not always possible for kit suppliers to etch all rows of rivets. In a trice you can make your own rivet pliers that are cheap and deliver reasonable quality. Specialists' tools are often very expensive. No matter how accurately you work, the etch will bend and the rivets will be irregular. Etched kits often require small half etched holes to be pressed out as a rivet.
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